Whether you are an avid powerboater who participates in poker runs and racing or are one who prefers the leisure of a solo ride on the water, taking care of your boat in the winter is just as important as during the summer months. The weather has already been crazy and if you are in one of the lower states that usually doesn’t see freezing temperatures… take notice, be safe and winterize.
When the boating season is winding down and you do not boat in a year round boating area, it’s time to start thinking about protecting your valuable recreational asset. The time and effort you spend now will have a definite effect on your boat’s performance, or lack of it, and certainly save you time, effort and money come spring. You should remember that your insurance policy may not cover damage done by lack of maintenance or neglect.
The best place for your boat to be during the winter is out of the water, under cover, in a climate-controlled boat storage area. This, however, can be expensive. If don’t have this option perhaps you should consider shrink-wrapping your boat. This, too, is a little expensive but provides a very protective cover. Short of these two items, make sure that your boat is well covered with a tarp or some other sturdy cover.
Your first step in winterizing should be to make a checklist of all items that need to be accomplished. Check the owner’s manual of both your boat and motor for manufacturer’s recommendations on winterization. If you are a new boat owner, perhaps you should employ the assistance of a friend with experience in winterizing or hire a professional to do the job.
Here are some general procedures you’ll need to follow.
You should run the engine to warm it up and change the oil while it is warm. This allows the oil to drain more fully. Make sure you supply cooling water to the engine via the flushing port. Remove the oil filter and properly dispose of it as well. Refill the engine, check the level and check it again for leaks.
Finally, flush the engine with non-toxic antifreeze by using an intake hose to the water pump. Place the end of the hose in a bucket or bottle of antifreeze. Start the engine and allow the antifreeze to circulate until it starts to exit the exhaust. While you’re in the engine room you should also change the fluid in your transmission. Remove spark plugs and use “fogging oil” to spray into each cylinder. Wipe down the engine with a shop towel sprayed with a little fogging oil.
- You should thoroughly inspect the stern drive and remove any plant life or barnacles from the lower unit.
- Drain the gear case and check for moisture in the oil. This could indicate leaking seals that must be repaired before spring recommissioning.
- Clean the lower unit with soap and water.
- If your stern drive has a rubber boot(look between the transom and engine), check it for cracks or pinholes.
- Grease all fittings and check fluid levels in hydraulic steering or lift pumps.
- Check with your owner’s manual for additional recommendations by the manufacturer.
- Gauge the remaining fuel in the tank and treat it with the correct amount of a fuel stabilizer.
- Flush the engine with fresh water using flush muffs or the flushing port usually on the back of the engine.
- Start the engine and with it running and the cowl removed, spray fogging solution into the air intakes on the front of the engine.
- While its still running, remove the fuel line from the engine and continue spraying fogging solution until the engine dies. It is important to run the engine with the fuel line removed to burn all fuel from the carburetors to prevent build-up of deposits from evaporated fuel.
- Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads.
- Change the gear oil in the lower unit.
- Lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a good wax.
- Wash the engine down with soap and water and rinse thoroughly